Champagne Dhondt-Grellet (new)
Champagne Dhondt-Grellet
Flavigny, Côte des Blancs, Champagne, France
Adrien Dhondt
In 1986, Eric Dhondt and Edith Grellet decided to stop selling off grapes to negociants and started Dhondt-Grellet. Their focus on farming translated into honest Champagnes from great holdings across the Côte des Blancs.
Starting with two hectares, the domaine has now tripled in size and starting gaining real attention when Adrien took over winemaking in 2012 at age 22. Today, joined by his sister Alice, he has slowly increased the range of Champagnes produced by isolating their holdings across the villages of Cramant and Cuis and bottling pure expressions of Chardonnay. Most recently, he launched a small negociant project to satisfy his curiosity outside of his own domaine’s style.
Adrien has an ambitious vision with no signs of slowing down and we couldn’t be more excited about the direction of this young domaine.
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The Dhondt family have worked with a perpetual reserve since they began estate bottling in 1986. After drawing off 30% of his reserves for the new year’s tirage, Adrien replenishes the loss with wine kept back from the new vintage and racks the resulting blend to barrel—accompanied by the fresh lees of the latest vintage—in May. Come harvest time, when empty barrels are needed, the perpetual reserve is returned to tank. Each year, the process is repeated, ensuring the domaine’s barrels are never empty.
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Adrien primarily has parcels in two villages: Cramant (Grand Cru) and Cuis (1er Cru).
In Cramant, Adrien makes one Grand Cru single parcel wine: “Le Bateau,” located on La Butte de Saran considered to be the best terroir of Cramant. The soils are clay and limestone soils over a chalk subsoil. This vineyard is planted to the oldest vines of the domaine. The exposure is southern and because of the soil's high limestone content, the soil doesn't hold too much moisture. The vineyard was planted in 1951 by Adrien's great-grandfather.
The village of Cuis is geologically very similar to Cramant but the terroir of Cuis has more top soil. Adrien farms nine different plots within Cuis, a large percentage of them old-vine parcels of Chardonnay.
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Adrien uses organic & biodynamic practices but he is not seeking certification, preferring to work in the spirit of what he calls “peasant viticulture,” using no synthetic products, no herbicides or insecticides, enriching his soils with homemade compost and, as of Spring 2021, plowing each plot with his horse, Thor. His philosophy is to have a living soil with a healthy balance between microbial life and the vine. In the vines, there’s a lot of manual work: he prunes short and debuds severely to limit yields and produce ripe, concentrated fruit at harvest time. He often cites inspiration from great Burgundy estates by practicing plot selection.
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In the cellar, Dhondt has moved almost completely to barrel fermentation with ambient yeasts, filling his fûts after a very short six hours’ settling (or débourbage) and adding minimal sulfur dioxide. The vins clairs spend eight months on the lees before tirage without cold stabilization, filtering or fining.
During those eight months of élevage, the wines are topped up when Dhondt deems it is appropriate judicious, “about every month and a half, I’d say, but I decide whether to top up—and whether to perform bâtonnage—by tasting.”
Again the influence of Burgundy is evident in the texture and vinosity - Adrien cites Coche-Dury, Vincent Dancer and Jean-Yves Bizot among his inspirations